CUSTOM
ROD
BUILDING
By
Stanley
L. Hentschel
The following overview of the custom rod building
process is meant to assist the novice rod
builder. It has been my experience
in four decades of custom rod building, that most people lack a basic understanding
of how rod blank construction effects the overall functionality of the
completed tool, and are usually naive about the basic principals of
rod building. Hopefully this will
clear up the confusion.
THE
BLANK MAKING PROCESS
The most widely used raw
materials are fiberglass, graphite, or a combination of both called composite.
Other materials are in experimental stages, but are far from
perfection. Fiberglass or graphite
material in the form of "mats" is first impregnated with a bonding
resin. The main pattern is then
cut from a template, which takes the form of a "triangular pennant".
The pennant is now "tacked" and "rolled" under
controlled pressure onto the inner mold called a "mandrel".
The mandrel, which is no more than a tapered stainless steel shaft, is
very important to a blanks action. The
four basic mandrel designs are: "slow,
medium, fast, and extra fast". From
these four basic designs or "tapers" come the thousands of
combinations that make up the rod manufacturer's catalogs.
Once the material is rolled
onto the mandrel, "cellophane" is wrapped under controlled pressure
over the blank material creating an "outer mold" to assure
positioning of the material during the "baking process".
After the blank is baked in specially designed ovens, the mandrel is
"pulled" and the cellophane is removed.
The rod blank is then sanded smooth and a finishing "gel
coat" applied for protection.
ROD
ASSEMBLY
There are basic principals
which apply to all custom rod building. First
and foremost is locating the "spine" or the hard side of the blank.
To do this, place the butt of the blank on a hard flat surface such as
the floor or a table. Hold the tip
in one hand and while applying pressure downward to the midsection, rotate the
blank until a distinct "jump" is felt.
This arc or curve is caused by the blanks tendency to assume a position
of least resistance. Since this
arc will be the obvious way the blank will try to bend when under the pressure
of fighting a fish or casting, the guides must be placed on the correct side
of the spine. Fly rods and
spinning rods have the guides placed opposite the hard side, or on the
"soft" side of the curve. Bait
casting rods, or any type rod that
uses conventional, revolving spool reels, which sit on top of the rod, have
the guides positioned on the "hard" side of the curve
Once the spine has been
located and "marked", assembly of the butt section should begin.
Selection of the butt cap, hand grips, and reel seat will depend on
style of the rod and preference.
After gluing on the butt cap,
you will proceed with the rear grip.
Cork
tape has an adhesive backing
and should be wrapped spirally around the blank being secured at the ends with
thread wraps, vinyl tape, or the butt cap and reel seat assembly.
Cork
rings or pre formed grips are
simply reamed to the diameter of it's positioning on the rod blank and epoxied
in place. (Use a good two part epoxy
that is "water proof and does not shrink".)
Hypalon, celite, or any other rubber type grip is a little more
difficult. Select a grip that is
smaller in diameter than the rod blank. I
have found that in order to get the best bond possible, and prevent problems
with loosening in the future, the smaller the diameter the better.
After applying epoxy to the blank, use a small amount of Vaseline or
liquid soap as a lubricant to reduce friction when sliding the grip down the rod
blank to the butt section. Clean up
any excess epoxy.
Now, mark off the position of
the reel seat and begin building a "bushing".
Bushing material used in fitting the reel seat can be wood, cork,
fiberglass, graphite, and fiberglass or masking tape.
I have found that paper masking tape can be built up to the exact
diameter needed, and by using two part epoxy glue, you can achieve a superior
bond that will hold under the most stressing situation.
When the proper diameter has been obtained, epoxy the reel seat in place making
sure that the reel seat hood is properly aligned with the "spine".
Spinning and fly rods aligned with the soft side
of the rod blank, all conventional type rods with the hard side.
Clean up any excess epoxy.
Use the same procedure for
fitting the fore grip as you did with the rear grip.
A winding check can be added for decoration.
GUIDE
SPACING
In general, guides should be
spaced in order to distribute stress, and keep the fishing line in contour with
the rod blank when it is flexed. Also
keep in mind that the fewer guides used, the lighter the rod, and less friction
problems will occur.
Spacing for a spinning or surf
casting rod should begin with the butt or "gathering" guide being
placed on the "soft" side of the rod blank as far away from the reel
as possible without the casted line hitting the blank or creating too severe an
angle between the guide and reel. Placing
the gathering guide too close to the reel will result in reducing the momentum
of the line and therefore shorten your cast.
Each successive guide should be placed in a manner to reduce the casted
coils of line down to the tip top, and evenly distribute stress over the contour
of the flexed blank. Again, make
sure there are no severe angles between guides, and that there is a systematic
reduction of space between guides in order to speed up passage of the line
through the guides.
When spacing the guides on a conventional rod blank such as a boat, dock,
or bait casting rod you must remember that the guides will be placed on the hard
side of the blank. Make sure when
the rod is flexed that the line does not touch the blank between guides.
Spacing guides on a fly rod leaves little margin for error since you are
casting only line and the blanks are relatively delicate.
Distributing the stress over the blank and a systematic reduction of
space between guides is critical for superior function.
Pay particular attention to stress on the ferrule, and angle of fly line
from the stripper (butt) guide
to stripping hand.
GUIDE
WRAPPING
Using masking or cellophane
tape, fasten each guide in it's properly spaced place.
Mark the beginning and ending wrap length with either tape or pencil.
Keep in mind that the longer wrap the heavier and stiffer the rod will
become. Begin your thread wrap at
the tape or pencil mark working towards the guide.
Do this by wrapping the thread over it's self while applying only enough
tension to securely hold the guide to the rod blank and avoid any gaps
in‑between the thread. Continue
turning the rod blank until the thread wraps up over the foot of the guide.
At a point approximately half way along the foot of the guide, place a
loop of thread four inches long under the last wrap along the foot of the guide
(loop pointing towards the guide). Remove
the tape and continue to wrap thread over the loop until the base of guide foot
is reached. Cut winding thread and
pass end through loop maintaining tension. Pull
the loop and winding thread under wraps. Do
not cut the tag end of thread flush to wraps until you are ready to apply color
preserver and/or finish. If you have
any gaps between threads, gently rubbing with a burnishing tool.
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